der 770 tonnes to France. The biggest customer was Italy, with 5,500 tonnes – more Emmental than is eaten in the whole of Switzerland. Trademarks are very well protected in Switzerland’s southernly neighbour, however. Any break in the negative trend in Swiss Emmental would be a success in itself. Within the space of a decade, the quantity produced annually in Switzerland has fallen from over 25,000 tonnes to just under 17,000 tonnes, whereas the quantity of all cheese manufactured rose from 181,000 tonnes to 207,000 tonnes. Not all milk becomes Emmental Marlies Zaugg and Bernhard Meier have experienced this in their dairy as well. Every two months, they are told how much Emmental they are allowed to manufacture. “The quantity just keeps going down over time,” Zaugg says. Currently, they are allowed to devote 40 percent of the milk they receive from their suppliers to making the cheese. The remainder is used to make their own varieties of cheese. They then sell this cheese directly, to restaurants, via small regional shops or at local markets. There is a self-service cupboard in front of the dairy containing a wide range of their products. Sales are good. People who visit on foot or by bicycle are only too keen to take advantage of the offer. But if shifting their cheese is so easy, The wheels of cheese are hefty, often weighing in excess of 100 kg, and today are regularly turned by machine. That said, the daily routine still involves plenty of manual labour. Photo: Danielle Liniger what is the problem? Emmental made as tradition demands “is simply better”, Zaugg says. But that quality comes at a price. “Feeding the cows, manufacturing the cheeses by hand, regularly tending the wheels, the cellar used for ripening – everything costs more.” Enough people need to be aware of this and also think it matters, “otherwise there’s no point”. Finally, this traditional career needs new blood that is prepared to go the extra mile. This is a further source of concern for Marlies Zaugg. Her day begins at 5 am. Cheese is made seven days a week. “Cows produce milk at the weekends as well,” she says with a grin. At least she and her husband can take it in turns at the weekend, or hire a replacement in order to take time off. DÖLF BARBEN IS A JOURNALIST AT THE “DER BUND” AND “BERNER ZEITUNG” NEWSPAPERS. These large, striking holes are typical of Emmental. The taste and texture vary widely depending on its ripeness. Photo: Keystone Swiss Review / December 2022 / No.6 12 Economy
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