Switzerland has a population density of 214 people per km2. The canton of Jura has an average of only 88 inhabitants per km2. Jura has very decent road connections, yet still more than enough space for people to live far enough from each other to tolerate differences of thought or deed. Café du Soleil in Saignelégier village square is steeped in the spirit of nonconformism. In 1980, the year after Jura became a canton, a group of like-minded friends transformed this old venue into a cultural hub. Their aim as stated in the founding manifesto was to create a “space conducive to critical analysis and to freedom”, where people would “reclaim autonomy for themselves and for their region as a whole”. Today, Café du Soleil has lost some of the edginess that set it apart in those early days. On the menu, you can order vegetarian spring roll followed by a 200-gram rib-eye steak. Cultural events consist of exhibitions and concerts. Nonetheless, places like Saignelégier epitomise how Jura’s rebellious image persists to this day. A progressive constitution, way ahead of its time Saignelégier’s camping site, situated not far from the stunning Etang de la Gruère lake reminiscent of the Scandinavian lake districts, is one of the few camping sites in Switzerland with no marked spaces or electrical access points. Or any booking system for that matter. There is enough space for everyone. “C’est ça la liberté,” say the site attendants. I ride a little further before reaching the ostensibly sleepy Franches-Montagnes village of Les Genevez. Local mayor Anael Lovis, aged 23, is the most exciting thing going for Les Genevez these days. But the small municipality made a name for itself decades ago when its residents opposed the construction of a nearby military base that had long been in the pipeline, viewing the proposed complex as a threat to wetlands like the Etang de la Gruère. “A very important episode in the Jura psyche,” says Baume-Schneider. And very important in affirming Jura’s progressive credentials in German-speaking Switzerland. Jura’s ambitious 1979 constitution, which was way ahead of its time (and the rest of Switzerland), helped to consolidate the canton’s forward-looking reputation, enshrining the right to strike, the right to work, the right to housing, the principle of gender equality, and the establishment of an office for women’s affairs. Non-Swiss residents in Jura are also allowed to vote in cantonal elections and referendums. The A16 motorway The long ride down from the Franches-Montagnes highlands gives me time to take in the scenery. The weather-worn road has barely enough room to negotiate the Many Swiss associate Jura with wetlands like the famous Etang de la Gruère lake pictured here. Photo: Keystone Jura in its current form. The canton will increase in size at the beginning of 2026, when Moutier – situated on the map between Delémont and Grenchen – switches allegiance from Berne to Jura. Café du Soleil in Saignelégier is a cultural hub steeped in the spirit of nonconformism. Photo: Jürg Steiner Le Noirmont Swiss Review / October 2024 / No.5 6 Focus
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