ers, the maids and the cooks”. And to the creativity of butchers who through the centuries came up with over 400 types of sausage, of which only a fraction appear in the book. Such traditional products continue to underpin the work of all artisans, he adds. Incidentally, Imhof claims that the canton of Solothurn is the spiritual home of Switzerland’s favourite sausage, the Cervelat – not because the smoked speciality was invented there, but because of Olten, one of Switzerland’s most important rail hubs. The hearty Cervelat-based salad (Wurstsalat) served at Olten’s famous station restaurant made a name for itself well into the 1980s. Glacier wine The book’s Vin du glacier entry provides an insight into the old nomadic, transhumance lifestyle of people who moved between the high pastures and the valleys of Valais. Farmers in the 18th century grew vines in the former marshlands of the Rhône Valley. After pressing the grapes, they would transport the wine up to the highmountain villages, such as Grimentz below the Moiry Glacier. Each family made enough wine for themselves, and then a little extra. This went into an old larch barrel, kept to one side in a cold, dark cellar, and never emptied. The barrel was topped up every spring. Some of these vessels are now very old and are treasured family heirlooms. “In 2022, the oldest barrel, dating back to 1886, contained wine from 130 different vintages,” says Imhof, who can report first hand that glacier wine tastes a bit like sherry. Imhof himself was a Swiss Abroad in the 1980s and 1990s, reporting for the “Basler Zeitung” as a journalist in south-east Asia. He observed how Swiss chefs at hotels in Singapore liked to cook with local produce but had things like cream and chocolate delivered to them. “Swiss Abroad have also done their bit to preserve our culinary heritage.” One last question for the author. When Swiss expat clubs meet around the world, they invariably eat fondue together. Shouldn’t that be our national dish? When push comes to shove, yes, fondue, he replies. If Switzerland is synonymous with one thing, it’s cheese. From Schaffhausen: Aromat powdered seasoning, Hallauer Schinkenwurst, and Schaffhauserzungen – a protected biscuit speciality dating back to 1902. Photos: Echtzeit Verlag, provided The Bernese tableau consists of a whole leg of Bauernschinken, alongside Sauerkraut, and military biscuits – a dry but nutritious staple of Swiss army rations. Swiss Review / April 2025 / No.2 12 Society
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